The Guild is my inner circle. Members get first access to new pieces before they go live, studio dispatches from the bench, and the stories behind each piece. When a one-of-a-kind piece is finished, Guild members see it first. When a collection drops, Guild members shop before anyone else.

Join the Guild → Here

By joining the Guild. When new work is ready ~ especially one-of-a-kind pieces that sell once and are gone ~ I send an email to Guild members before anything goes live on the site.

I work in argentium silver (940),
continuum silver (950), and solid gold from 10K through 18K. Argentium is my primary silver - it’s a purer grade than traditional 925 sterling, has a beautiful bright white color, and significantly more tarnish-resistant. Continuum silver is what I use for wedding bands because of its superior hardness, tarnish resistance, and durability for daily wear.

I do not use gold-filled, gold-plated base metals, or brass. Every piece is solid precious metal.

The number refers to how much pure gold is in the alloy. 10K is approximately 41% gold and (depending on the formulation) is usually the most durable. 14K is approximately 58% gold and balances durability with a richer color. 18K is approximately 75% gold - the richest color but usually the softest of the three.
Colors can vary between the different karats, and their formulations.

For hard daily wear, I recommend 10K yellow gold, white karat golds, or continuum silver. Both are harder than argentium and 14-18K yellow formulations. I also recommend bands thicker than 2mm and a brushed or matte finish, which hides surface scratches better than a high polish. Metal decision involves more factors beyond hardness- It would be best to consult with your jeweler before finalizing a decision.

Absolutely - mixing metals is a great look. Just be mindful that gold is harder than most silver alloys and can scratch softer silver if the pieces are in constant contact. If you plan to regularly stack gold and silver together, I recommend having the silver pieces made in continuum silver, which has a hardness closer to gold and will hold up better alongside it.

Yes. There are no permanent patinas available for silver or gold jewelry. How quickly the finish changes depends on how the piece is worn, your skin chemistry, how it’s stored, and what it’s exposed to. Areas in frequent contact with skin oils will lighten
faster than recessed details.

I use liver of sulfur (LOS), which is a traditional patina commonly used by jewelers to create a darkened or aged appearance on silver. Your piece will arrive with the patina sealed lacquer to preserve the finish. Over time the patina will evolve - becoming unique to the wearer. To get the longest life from your finish, follow the care instructions included with your order.

For the longest-lasting darkened finish, I recommend heavy black rhodium or ruthenium plating. Plating outlasts chemical patina under most wear conditions. Reach out to discuss options - I can recommend the best finish based on the piece and how you plan to wear it.

Yes. Patina, plating, and polishing can all be reapplied at any time. Reach out and I’ll let you know what’s involved for your specific piece.

I do offer black rhodium or ruthenium plating in house. Gold plating can be requested on a case by case basis- it is not something I typically use due to not being relevant to my artistic style.

You can, but I don’t recommend making it a habit. Wearing jewelry 24/7 subjects it to accelerated wear and chemical exposure from soap, shampoo, and water minerals. To get the longest life from your pieces, remove them before sleeping, bathing, swimming, exercising, applying perfume or lotion, and cleaning. A little prevention goes a long way - pieces that are removed for daily activities will look better and last longer than pieces that never come off.

Store each piece in its own pouch or box, away from humidity. Sterling and argentium silver are more prone to tarnish than gold - individual anti-tarnish bags help. Don’t store multiple pieces together, as metals can accelerate each other’s tarnishing and harder pieces can scratch softer ones.

Warm water, a few drops of mild dish soap (Dawn works well), and a soft toothbrush. Soak for a few minutes to loosen buildup, gently scrub, rinse with warm water, and dry immediately with a soft cloth to prevent water spots.

For pieces without patina or stones, an ultrasonic cleaner is also safe.

The most accurate methods are ordering one of my ring sizers (available here) or visiting a local jeweler to be sized. I don’t recommend the string-and-ruler method or printable ring templates ~ they’re unreliable and frequently result in incorrect sizing. More details on my ring size guide page.

Complimentary resizing is available within 60 days of delivery on eligible rings (unless the listing notes the piece is not resizable). After 60 days, resizing is available for a fee. All resizing is done by me - third-party resizing voids the warranty. Full details on my warranty page.

Every piece is solid precious metal — argentium silver, continuum silver, or solid gold from 10K to 18K. Most pieces are made through lost wax casting: I carve the design by hand in wax, encase it in plaster, burn out the wax in a kiln, and cast molten metal into the void. From there, each piece is finished by hand - cut, filed, sanded, polished, and stones set where applicable. For one-of-a-kind pieces, the mold is destroyed after a single casting.

Some pieces are made through fabrication - formed from sheet and wire using hammers, torches, and hand tools. Individual product listings note which method was used and the specific alloy.

Collection pieces are repeatable designs that I make to order in your size and metal choice. The design can be remade because the model or technique allows for it.

One-of-a-kind (OOAK) pieces are made from a single wax carving. The mold is destroyed in the casting process. That piece
will never be made again ~ when it’s gone, it’s gone.

Custom work starts with a $500 design retainer, which secures your spot in my schedule and covers our initial
consultation. We’ll discuss your ideas, metals, gemstones, and budget. I’ll provide a detailed quote and timeline after the consultation. The retainer applies toward your final project cost. Custom silver work starts at $1,500; gold starts at $3,000.

Click here for full details and booking

All orders ship via USPS. Free ground shipping on orders of $150 or more. Faster delivery options (Priority, 2-Day, Next Day) are available at checkout. Every order ships with tracking and full insurance. All orders or repairs over $300 require signature upon delivery.

Most orders ship within 3 -4 weeks. Pieces marked as made-to-order may take up to 8 weeks, as they’re made after you purchase - not pulled from a shelf. Production times are listed on individual product pages. If you don’t see a timeline on a specific piece, reach out and I’ll let you know.

OOAK and ready-to-ship pieces ship within 1–5 business days.

Yes. Every order is insured for the full value of the piece. If your order is lost or damaged in transit, contact me immediately with photos and I’ll file a claim on your behalf. I’m not responsible for packages lost or stolen after delivery- you'd need to file a police report. All orders valued over $300 require signature upon delivery for insurance reasons.

Yes. I offer a lifetime craftsmanship warranty on every piece I make. If something fails that shouldn’t have - a cracked casting, a failed solder joint, a setting that gives way prematurely - I’ll repair or replace it at no charge. The warranty transfers with the piece if it’s passed down or gifted.

See the full details here

Contact me before shipping anything: info@skollandjewelry.com or 920-267-7952.

I’ll provide shipping instructions and let you know what to expect. Most repairs are completed within 2–4 weeks. Return shipping is the customer’s responsibility - please use a tracked, insured parcel (not a paper envelope).